Described
as
“the
perfect
fit”,
the
combination
ofluxury
online
retailers
Yoox
and
Net-a-Porter
was
finalised
on
Thursday
—
but
with
oneimperfection:
the
sudden
decision
by
Net-a-Porter
founder
Natalie
Massenet
to
resign
justhours
earlier
on
Wednesday
night.
由两大奢侈品电商Yoox与Net-a-Porter(NAP)“天造地设”的合并大戏尘埃落定，但有一点美中不足：就在发布会开始前几个小时，Net-a-Porter创始人娜塔莉氠斯内(Natalie
Massenet)却突然宣布辞职。
“We
view
this
departure
as
a
clear
loss
for
Yoox/Net-a-Porter,”
said
Chiara
Battistini,
luxurygoods
analyst
at
JPMorgan,
as
the
news
broke. “Ms
Massenet
was
the
vision
behind
NAP’sstrong
success,
being
actively
involved
in
the
management
of
the
online
group
and
relationshipswith
brands.”
“她的离职，我们认为显然是新公司Yoox/Net-a-Porter的损失。”摩根大通(JPMorgan)奢侈品行业分析师奇娅拉巴蒂斯蒂尼(Chiara
Battistini)获悉消息后这样评价道。“马斯内女士是NAP功成名就的大功臣，在对这家电商的管理以及搞好与知名时尚品牌的关系方面可谓鞠躬尽瘁。”
Ms
Massenet,
who
founded
Net-a-Porter
in
2000 —
the
same
year
that
Federico
Marchetti
setup
Yoox
—
had
stayed
at
the
helm
of
the
business
after
selling
it
in
2010
to
Switzerland’sRichemont
in
a
deal
that
valued
the
London-based
group
at
350m.
马斯内女士于2000年创办NAP，费德里科氠切蒂(Federico
Marchetti)也于同年创办了Yoox。2010年，总部位于伦敦的NAP以3.5亿英镑卖给瑞士历峰集团(Richemont)，但马斯内女士一直执掌NAP帅印。
But
her
decision
to
refrain
from
taking
up
the
executive
chairman
role
at
the
newly-mergedgroup
—
Richemont
agreed
in
April
to
sell
Net-a-Porter
to
Yoox
for
shares
—
bears
thehallmarks
of
a
personality
clash.
但她做出不担任新成立公司的执行主席（历峰今年四月同意出售NAP股权于Yoox）的决定，明显是因为彼此（她与马切蒂）性格水火不容。
Ms
Massenet
said
in
a
statement
on
Thursday
morning: “Having
joined
forces
with
Yoox
group,the
company
will
be
bigger,
stronger
and
superbly
well-positioned
under
Federico’s
leadershipto
lead
the
industry
and
create
the
future
of
fashion.”
马斯内女士在不久前的声明中说：“与Yoox实现强强联合后，在马切蒂的领导下，公司的规模与实力会更上一层楼，将会做行业的领头羊，并开创时尚业未来新格局。”
It
was
Mr
Marchetti
who
had
described
the
merger
as
“perfect” —
through
the
creation
of
theworld’s
largest
online
retailer
focused
on
luxury
brands.
At
that
time,
Ms
Massenet
was“looking
forward”
to
their
future
and
ebullient
about
the
group’s
conjoined
power
to
“create
thefuture
of
fashion”.
正是马切蒂把两家公司的合并视为“珠联璧合”——理由是此举创建了全球规模最大的奢侈品电商。当时的马斯内对前景充满了无限憧憬，对两家公司合并后“开创时尚行业新未来”的实力信心十足。
However,
the
corporate
marriage
between
the
quiet,
autodidactic
Italian
tech
entrepreneurMr
Marchetti
and
the
flamboyant,
charismatic
former
journalist
Ms
Massenet,
who
is
alsopresident
of
the
British
Fashion
Council,
raised
eyebrows
as
soon
as
the
deal
was
struck.
但是，当两家公司达成合并协议后，以性格沉稳、自学成才的意大利科技创业者马切蒂与个性张扬、魅力四射的马斯内（这位昔日的记者同时又兼任英国时装协会(British
Fashion
Council)主席）为首的两家公司实现“联姻”后，就引发了业界质疑。
“She’ll
have
resigned
by
Christmas,”
said
one
person
familiar
with
the
situation
on
the
day
ofthe
merger
announcement.
Many
fashion
insiders
agreed
that
her
resignation
was
only
aquestion
of
time.
“马斯内肯定会在圣诞节前辞职。”宣布两家公司合并的当天，一位熟悉内情者说。时尚界很多权威人士都认为她的辞职只是时间问题。
Further
cause
for
speculation
followed
in
May,
when,
during
a
lunch
with
the
FT,
Mr
Marchettireiterated
his
ultimate
control
of
the
group,
as
well
as
the
pair’s
strikingly
differentmanagerial
styles.
到了今年五月，坊间的猜测甚嚣尘上，与《金融时报》的午餐会期间，马切蒂除了重申两家公司截然不同的管理风格，还强调自己对合并后的公司拥有终决权。
Pointing
out
that
there
would
be
only
one
boss
of
the
new
group
“and
that’s
me”,
he
went
on
todescribe
himself
as
unpopular
at
Yoox,
which
runs
ecommerce
sites
for
Giorgio
Armani,Valentino
and
他指出新公司只能有一位老大，“而且这个人就是自己”，并继而称自己与昔日在Yoox一样不受员工待见。Yoox为阿玛尼(Giorgio
Armani)与华伦天奴(Valentino)等时尚品牌管理电商网站。
“They
don’t
like
me,”
he
said
of
his
colleagues. “But
that’s
OK.
I
don’t
need
them
to
like
me.”
“员工不喜欢我。”他这样说道，“但这无关紧要，本人不需要他们喜欢。”
His
bullish
attitude
stood
in
stark
contrast
to
the
culture
of
shared
passion
engendered
by
MsMassenet
at
Net-a-Porter,
where
her
popularity
and
charismatic
leadership
style
wereconsidered
integral
to
the
company’s
success.
他的执拗性格与马斯内执掌NAP时倡导的“共享激情”企业文化形成了鲜明对比，马斯内的巨大声望以及魅力型领导风格是NAP成功的法宝。
Her
sororal
cheerleading
spirit
seemed
at
odds
with
Mr
Marchetti’s
results-driven
dogmatism—
the
day
after
the
Lunch
with
the
FT
interview
appeared
in
print,
she
posted
on
Instagram
animage
of
a
heart
captioned
with
an
entreaty
to
be
nice
to
one
another.
The
image
wassubsequently
removed.
她与员工情同手足、打成一片，似乎与马切蒂只注重结果的独断专行显得格格不入——与《金融时报》的访谈见诸报端后的第二天，她在Instagram上展出了一张带有“恳请彼此心心相印”字幕的心形照片，但该张照片随后就被删除。
While
the
merger
is
not
jeopardised
by
Ms
Massenet’s
departure
—
and,
indeed,
Yoox
sharesrose
5
per
cent
on
Thursday
—
her
absence
leaves
the
group
far
more
vulnerable,
partlybecause
of
the
loss
of
her
networking
skills
in
the
world
of
design.
虽说马斯内的离职并没有影响合并后的公司——没错，Yoox周四的股份涨了4%——但她的挂印而去却让新公司显得越发外强中干，部分原因就是马斯内也随之带走了自己在设计界的人脉。
In
conversations
with
the
FT
this
year,
many
British-based
designers,
among
them
ErdemMoralioglu,
Christopher
Kane,
Roksanda
Ilincic,
Roland
Mouret
and
Victoria
Beckham
havetestified
to
her
vital
role
in
helping
steer
their
brands
into
profitable
international
fashionhouses.
在与《金融时报》今年的访谈中，包括埃德姆莫拉里奥格鲁(Erdem
Moralioglu)、克里斯托弗凯恩(Christopher
Kane)、萝克桑达伊林契奇(Roksanda
Ilincic)、罗兰穆雷(Roland
Mouret)以及维多利亚贝克汉姆(Victoria
Beckham)在内的诸多英国设计师都亲口承认马斯内在向国际知名品牌公司推介自己品牌时居功至伟。
Those
relationships,
developed
over
her
15
years
at
Net-a-Porter,
may
prove
near
impossibleto
replicate,
and
much
of
the
lustre,
glamour
and
élan
she
brought
to
the
company
leaves
withher.
过去15年执掌NAP时积攒的这些人脉资源将来几乎不可能再重现，她的诸多荣誉、魅力以及激情都随着她的挂职而去而基本烟消云散。
Moreover,
while
the
Yoox-Net
merger
creates
a
business
with
a
market
value
of
2.3bn
and
thebiggest
fashion
e-commerce
site
in
the
world,
Net
looks
increasingly
vulnerable
within
thefast-emerging
digital
landscape.
而且，虽说合并后的公司市值达到23亿英镑，并成为全球规模最大的时尚类电商，但在迅猛发展的电商行业，NAP显得越来越不堪一击。
Apple’s
Ian
Rogers
has
just
been
appointed
head
of
digital
strategy
by
LVMH,
which
suggeststhe
luxury
giant
is
at
last
preparing
to
launch
comprehensively
into
the
e-commerce
sector.And
Condé
Nast
will
soon
unveil
its
newly
branded
style.com,
a
luxury
e-commerce
platformin
which
the
company
is
reputedly
investing
100m.
来自苹果公司的伊恩圠灿斯(Ian
Rogers)最近刚被路威酩轩集团(LVMH)任命为数字战略部负责人，此举表明这家奢侈品巨擘终于决定全面进军电商业。康泰纳仕(Condé
Nast)新成立的奢侈品电商网也即将揭开神秘面纱，坊间说公司投资1亿英镑巨资创建了这家电商平台。
What
next
for
Ms
Massenet?
She
sits
on
a
sizeable
fortune.
She
was
reported
to
have
earned
50m
from
the
initial
sale
of
Net-a-Porter
to
Cartier
ownerRichemont
in
2010.
Now,
she
stands
to
receive
a
payout
of
more
than
ㄠ 洀,
according
to
FTcalculations.
媒体报道她2010年把NAP卖给卡地亚(Cartier)品牌所有者历峰集团时，进账5000万英镑。如今据《金融时报》估算，她这一次有望进账1亿多欧元。
To
walk
away
from
her
“baby”
must
have
been
difficult,
nonetheless,
especially
since
she
hasoccupied
a
near-unrivalled
position
of
authority
and
influence
within
the
industry
for
years.
然而，与自己费尽心血打造的公司说再见肯定难舍难分，尤其是她多年来已在业界拥有无人撼动的权威与影响力。
“As
for
my
own
future,
my
entrepreneurial
drive
is
as
strong
today
as
it
always
has
been,
andmy
passion
for
innovation
will
continue
to
be
my
guide
in
business,”
wrote
Ms
Massenet
in
herstatement.
“至于我个人的未来，我的创业劲头依然不减当年，而且我对创新的热情将继续为自己在商业领域指明道路，”马斯内在声明中这样写道。
Some
of
the
wilder
speculators
have
suggested
that
her
departure
may
see
her
returning
topublishing:
Net-a-Porter’s
bimonthly
print
magazine
Porter
recently
won
Print
Product
of
theYear
at
the
British
Media
Awards,
and
she
has
made
no
secret
of
her
passion
for
journalismand
editing.
更有人大胆预测：她离职后，可能重返出版界：Net-a-Porter的双月刊杂志《Porter》最近荣获英国媒体奖的年度最佳纸质杂志奖(Print
Product
of
the
Year
at
the
British
Media
Awards)，她毫不掩饰自己对记者行业以及采编业的偏爱。
Could
a
move
back
to
Condé
Nast,
where
she
once
worked
on
Tatler,
be
on
the
cards?
It’stempting
to
see
a
directorial
role
for
the
tech
entrepreneur
at
a
company
currently
reinventingitself
as
a
digital
player.
We
watch
this
space.
她是否会重回康泰纳仕出版集团(Condé
Nast)？她曾在《Tatler》杂志干过。让科技创业的领军人物执掌正转向数字界弄潮儿的出版界，肯定精彩纷呈。让我们拭目以待吧。
