春季的妆容应以淡妆为主 自然至上
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Makeup for spring is nude but noticeable
Makeup is getting a make-under for spring.
Whether your seasonal wardrobe will be made up mostly of cool neutral clothes or pop-art brights, makeup artists advise not to go overboard with rainbow colors.
They'll create too much of a contrast with the understated pieces, and you risk appearing cartoonish with the whole mod look.
Robyn Tamura, director of strategy and creative development for Clinique's global education program, says if white is the base of your outfit, the first beauty step to take is to smooth out the skin's texture. Then brighten the eye with concealer and work on defining the lash line, eyelashes and brows.
"It doesn't have to be about bold colors, it's more about technique," she says.
Joe Costa, a makeup artist for Yves Saint Laurent, suggests a palette that is natural in the spirit of the great outdoors, which has countless shades of rich browns and sandy tans.
"We have a tendency with a natural look to think everything has to be neutral, but if you look at nature that's not how it is. ... Think of when grandma used to pinch your cheeks. That's 'natural looking,' but you have color."
If you have browns and beiges on the eye, Costa says to wear a rosier shade on either the lips or cheeks -- not both. To dress up the face for evening, use black around the eyes.
"Eyeliner is huge for spring," Costa said.
"It's about the 'natural nude face' -- that's what I call it," says makeup artist Bobbi Brown. "It's not all beiges, it's about finding the colors that are right for you.
"If you're very pale, nude is the color of your lips, probably a pale pink. But if you have darker skin, what is 'nude'? It could be bronze. I'm sure Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez and Gwyneth Paltrow all have different nude colors."
春季的妆容应该以淡妆为主。
无论你这个季节的服装是以“酷酷的”中性风格为主还是以流行的鲜亮风格为主,化妆专家们建议,少用过于艳丽的颜色。
因为艳丽的颜色与素净的衣服搭配起来会显得太扎眼,弄不好就会让你的一身打扮看起来很卡通。
倩碧全球教育项目战略与创意发展部经理罗宾·塔姆拉说,如果你的衣服以白色为主,那么第一步就得消除面部肌肤粗糙不平;然后用遮瑕产品修饰眼部,使眼睛更有神;再画眼线、睫毛和眉毛。
她说:“颜色是否夸张大胆并不重要,技巧才是关键。”
圣罗兰化妆大师乔·考斯塔建议,应本着贴近大自然的精神来选择颜色,比如,各种不同深浅的棕色、茶褐色在大自然中都能找到。
“我们总认为自然妆容就是什么都是没色彩,但是如果你留意一下‘自然’,就会明白事实并非如此……你可以回忆一下小时候脸被奶奶拧红之后的样子,那就是一种‘自然妆容’,但还是有色彩的。”
考斯塔说,如果眼部用的是棕色或淡棕色,可以在唇部或脸部用玫瑰色,但不要两处都用。晚妆要稍浓,眼部可用黑色。
考斯塔说:“春季用眼线笔过于浓重。”
化妆大师鲍比·布朗说:“‘自然真脸庞'才是最美,这是我的叫法。并不是说淡棕色就最好,关键是要找到适合你自己的颜色。”
“如果你的脸色比较苍白,可以用肉色的唇彩,最好是淡粉色。但是如果你的肤色比较暗,那选择什么样的‘自然色’呢?可以用古铜色。我敢定碧昂丝、珍妮弗·洛佩兹和格温妮丝·帕尔特罗所用的‘自然色’都不同。”
Vocabulary:
concealer :遮暇产品
lash line : 眼线
nude color : 自然色
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